Iran is probably the most misunderstood country on Earth, and one of the most fascinating. Few people in the West know anything about Iranian people beyond their current politics and religion. In this book, award-winning travel writer Jill Worrall, with her friend Reza Mirkhalaf, a leading tour manager from Tehran, describe an Iran the world has forgotten about. Using the threads of Iran's silk road heritage as a basis for a road trip travelogue, they visit places both ancient and modern, many rarely written about by westerners. Jill's vivid observations are complemented by Reza's expert knowledge of Iran's history, religion, culture and architecture.During their journey, Jill and Reza explore the caravanserai that were once a vital part of the silk routes that once crossed Persia, while also encountering many ordinary Iranians. The result is a picture of Iran that offers a detailed insight into the landscapes, landmarks and people of the country at a grassroots level. The title reflects the dual nature o Iranian life and also the fact Jill and Reza are two people of different sexes, different religions and cultures travelling together, yet keeping their travels harmoniously on course. Together they visit the holiest city in Iran, Mashhad, paddle in the Persian Gulf, pass close by the borders of both Afghanistan and Iraq, stay with local families, play in the snow near Mt Ararat, pray in mosques, read poetry in Shiraz and eat ice creams in Isfahan.