Salt has been an essential dining element since the invention of the kitchen table. But today, specialty salts come in a vast variety of forms and flavors. Smokey salts, salts infused with clay or charcoal, herby and spicy salts, salt with extra umami or a hint of sugar are being added to many recipes, to layer more flavor, and not simply to enhance the flavors already there. It’s a feast for the tongue, and colorful salts also add visual interest to dishes, and the varying textures add crunch.