The basis of the book is the author's personal impressions of two long scientific business trips (in 1963 and 1968). Having visited all parts of the country, he saw cities and villages, majestic monuments of antiquity and modern factories, religious rites, etc. He talks about people he met and made friends with during his trips. The specialty of the historian of India and personal meetings give the author rich material to highlight the complex problems of the modern political and social system of the country, seeking to break out of age-old backwardness.